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Exercise Peak Welbeck (July 2008)

In July 2008 a party of 12 students and two staff set out on a three week expedition to the remote At Bashi Mountain range in Southern Kyrgyzstan. From a mountaineering perspective the area is unexplored and the aim of the expedition was to explore a region above the At Kaindy valley, and hopefully reach a virgin summit of an unclimbed mountain at an anticipated altitude of around 4500 metres.

The outward journey was a flight via Moscow airport (very unfriendly) to Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan. There we were met by the guiding company (ITMC) with support staff and two huge off-road vehicles. Two bone shaken days later, we arrived at our base camp. The site was in a beautiful alpine valley on the At Kaindy River at an altitude of 2800m.

After establishing the camp site and undertaking some initial training with ropes etc, it was decided to split up into three groups for an initial reconnaissance of the surrounding area. One team made it to the top of the valley at 3500m where a formidable looking ice fall barred the way ahead. Another group found access to a promising looking ridge and even made a virgin ascent to a high spot at 3809m named “Peak Mandy”. In the distance a fine peak rose above the ridge; an obvious target.

We rested for a day, and then the whole team made it back to the previous high point on the ridge. From there it was a fairly tricky scramble across loose scree; followed by a ramp of moon like terrain, to a summit at 4088m. At 11 a.m. local time on 4th July this highest point was named “Peak Moon Welbeck”. A virgin summit grabbed in the first week; an excellent start to the expedition.

Next we focussed our attention on a snowy looking mountain; high above base camp; and probably around 5000m. We went up to the glacier below the peak, where we carried out some glacier crossing training with ropes crampons and ice axes. A small group looked for a way through the ice fall between the mountain slopes and the glacier. No direct route was identified but a deviation via some steep scree to one side, suggested a possible access. A small plateau of fine moraine near the glacier would provide an airy but hospitable advance base camp (ABC) at 3500m. We returned content to base camp for a well deserved rest.

Due to the limited size of the platform at ABC; and the potential for objective danger above; we decided to split into two small summit teams. Group A; (the first off); set out from ABC at dawn on the 9th of July; and pushed the route to a pass below the final ridge; at an altitude of 4350m (Atch Kaindy Pass).

The ridge from that point to the summit; was considered too technical for the time remaining that day; and the weather was closing in. Wisely group A returned to ABC, and then on to base to camp. Group A at this point were obviously exhausted; and rather disappointed at not being first on our major summit.

Group B now had their chance to cash in on the splendid efforts of the group A reconnaissance. After a sensational meteor shower, during their evening at ABC; group B set off from the glacier in the dawn of 12th July. It was decided to send only a three man team (our ace guide climber Pierre Muller and two strong students) for an attempt on the big target summit.

The remainder of group B would tackle a smaller rocky summit closer to ABC. Incredibly at around 8 am, both virgin summits were simultaneously reached. “Peak Vanina” at 4638m and “Rainbow Peak”, at 4364m. A sensational day’s climbing. The next day group A climbed Rainbow Peak in a blistering two and a half hours from ABC.

Once ABC had been cleared and brought down to advance base, there was only time for a quick reconnaissance of another neighbouring valley system. Perhaps we will go back another year for further exploration of this untouched and magical part of the world.

Apart from a few iffy tummies; we returned by road to Bishkek for a couple of days of very interesting post Soviet culture exploration. Then on to London where we all landed safe and sound. At this point the expedition could be genuinely declared a success.

A very special note of thanks is extended from all the expedition members to the Minerva Board; for their generous sponsorship donation. Without such financial assistance, this kind of; once in a life time opportunity, could only be offered to a limited number of well off students. Particular thanks must go to Steve Mallion who gave up his free time to handle our application.

Joe Dufton, Expedition Leader

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