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Scotland Winter Trek (December 2009)

Wed 16th December: Welbeck DSFC to JSMTC Tulloch

After minimal sleep and with feelings of apprehension and excitement about the days ahead, we dragged ourselves down to an early breakfast at 0630hrs – what a relaxing start to our Christmas Holiday! Our 10 hour journey began at 0700hrs and we quickly settled down with our Ipods hoping to catch up on some much needed sleep. We broke the journey roughly every 2 hours to change over the staff drivers, to stretch our legs and stock up on sweets. Eventually we arrived in the Great Glen of the Scottish Highlands (the middle of nowhere), surrounded by monstrous snow-covered peaks that we were all eager to climb. Just after we settled into the common room of JSMTC Tulloch for a briefing from Mr Dufton, we were plunged into darkness by a power cut (caused by forestry operations further down the Spean Valley). However, the well prepared Mr. Dufton had his head torch at the ready which enabled us to continue the thorough briefing about our daily routine, our accommodation and a broad plan for the days ahead. After some kit issue, including the all important fitting of crampons to boots, we sat down for a well-earned dinner beautifully cooked by Messrs Dufton and Worrall.

Thursday 17th December: Training Day 1: Winter Skills - Core Skills - Beinn a’Chaorrainn

Conditions: A nice, wintry day. We had an hour or so of snow fall in the morning but the afternoon was bright with some sun and light westerly winds. The temperature dropped with freezing conditions at just about all levels on the hills.

We were up again at 0630hrs to get ready for our first day out on the mountains. We were met by our guides who were Mike Pescod and Donald King from Abacus Mountaineering, and Danny Goodwin from Mountainplan. We were briefed on what kit to take for a day in the Scottish hills in winter and the art of travelling light and fast in these short winter days. At 0800hrs we headed out to Beinn a’Chaorrainn in the Great Glen where we hoped to find some snow-filled corries to learn some core winter walking skills, and at the same time make our way to the top of this 1252m Munro.

After a short minibus ride we arrived at the foot of the mountain raring to go. We split into groups and started walking with maps and compasses at the ready. We navigated our way partly up the mountain where we began our winter training. We were taught how to use our boots to kick steps on firm snow and to use our ice axes to arrest a fall. We put on our crampons and helmets and made ledges to stand on making our way slowly but surely into a corrie on the north side of Beinn a’Chaorrainn.

After a hasty lunch break we headed for a steep and icy ramp to learn how to stop ourselves from plunging to our death. We also stopped to analyse the layers in the snow pack to learn about how we might assess avalanche risk. We then climbed some very steep snow slopes to the summit of Beinn a’Chaorrainn using our crampons and ice axes. At 1252m this was our first Munro (a Scottish mountain over 3000’). We were treated to some amazing views as the sun burnt the drifting clouds into a golden glow towards sunset. We reached the minibus in fading light after a tiring but thoroughly enjoyable day.

Friday 18th December: Training Day 2: Carn Dearg (1221m) via Ledge Route and No. 4 Gully.

After a very early but much needed breakfast we headed out to Ben Nevis, the tallest mountain in Great Britain at 1343m. We met Donald, Mike and Danny in the Nevis Range car park and then headed up a steep rough track towards to a small parking area beside the Allt a Mhuilinn. We walked along a well-made track which had been funded by North Face which passes beneath the hugely impressive north face of Ben Nevis to the CIC Hut at the foot of Coire na Ciste. One group of 4 students headed into No. 4 gully whilst the remainder chose an ascent of Carn Dearg (1221m) via Ledge Route, a grade 2 ridge scramble. The group ascending No. 4 gully consolidated the skill of negotiating steep ground with crampons, axes and with the aid of a rope so that we wouldn’t fall too far if we slipped (it was a pretty big drop). We used slings and karabiners on rock pinnacles at the side of the gully for protection.

To the east, Groups 2 and 3 branched out of No.4 gully to reach the Grade 2 ridge scramble called Ledge Route. Using the skill of roping together, we started slowly up the snow covered rock faces working in teams of 4. Good communication and teamwork were the key to making good progress. Again, slings and karabiners were used to protect the more exposed part of the ridge. After a couple of rest stops we eventually made it to the top after 3 hours with a great sense of satisfaction. Sadly our view was obscured by the snow showers and cloud which had drifted in from the north-west - this also completely removed any sense of orientation. However, using the map and our guides’ vast knowledge of the terrain we reached the top of No. 4 Gully safely. Below us was a steep and treacherous snow slope which led back to the CIC Hut. Although this gully had claimed fatalities in the past, we descended undaunted and met with Group 1, before returning to the minibus.

Saturday 19th December: Training Day 3: Winter Skills - Aonach Mor Gondola to Aonach an Nid.

With the benefit of a much needed lie in (0700hrs!) we started the day feeling fresh and full of optimism, despite the warning of even more wintry conditions which were due to arrive during the course of the day.

After a half hour bus journey we arrived at Aonach Mor ski station for a short trip in a gondola 650m up the mountain. With Donald, Danny and Mike making every step look effortless, we walked up towards the east face of Aonach an Nid fitting crampons, ice axes and harnesses as soon as the ground became hard and icy. Considerable accumulations of fresh snow had formed a deep layer of wind slab in the lee of the wind, and this led us to judge that the east face of Aonach an Nid would be very prone to avalanches. We therefore had to choose our routes and monitor the conditions under foot very carefully throughout the day.

After a short walk we found a suitable spot with hard ice pouring over small rock outcrops to practice our ice climbing skills, using the crampons and two ice picks to tackle the cliffs with reasonable success. We then proceeded to learn the art of making snow belays and to belay from rock anchors. Working in pairs, we slowly but surely worked our way up Aonach an Nid and made it the top in worsening conditions with 40 mph gusts and a barrage of spin drift. We began the descent, tired but satisfied, and trudged through deep snow to the top station of the gondola. We all felt a great sense of achievement with more memories and photographs to enjoy later.

After another warming trip down the mountainside, we bade fond farewells to our instructors Donald, Mike and Danny. We hope to see them again next year. We made a detour on very icy roads to the Commando Memorial at Spean Bridge before returning to JSMTC Tulloch for a delicious Christmas meal from our fantastic chefs Mr Dufton and Mr Worrall. With the Christmas pudding disappearing in a matter of seconds we settled down for another night in front of our homemade cinema and a series of card games. So ended another enjoyable day and a fantastic winter adventure in the Scottish Highlands.

Sunday 20th December: JSMTC Tulloch to Welbeck DSFC

Up at 0500hrs and off at 0600hrs – that was the plan. Further heavy snowfall overnight added a sense of urgency as we loaded the van and returned JSMTC Tulloch to a state even better than when we arrived. A quick phone call to the Lochaber Police confirmed that the road through Glencoe was passable with care. We set off in deep snow and blizzard conditions which made the going slow. Although the snowfall relented after we left the Scottish Highlands, our progress south was hampered by freezing roads and blinding spray on the motorways. We reached Welbeck DSFC safely after a numbing ten hour journey – a record in all the years that the Scotland Winter-Trek Exercise has been running. However, it was well worth it!

Josie Lockwood, Maria Lynch, Tom Austin

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